A great ride, and I’d recommend it to anybody. It was not difficult or dangerous for me travelling alone. The train is excellent – although unlike, eg the Beijing Xi’an train, the washbasins are along the corridor rather than in a closeable room, which makes full washing en route difficult.
A medical form has to be signed, but only once the train is under way (how odd – would they throw you off?). The oxygen was turned on in the corridors during the Golmud-Tanggulan section, but available on demand in the cabins There were very few westerners, but the train was packed.
The information provided over the loudspeakers, including an English version, was excellent.
Great scenery, and the dining car was chaotic – great fun, noisy and a reasonable choice of Chinese food. They had an exercise book with dishes handwritten in English and Chinese as well as the printed Chinese menu.




