As an Australian living in Guilin for the last 12 years (written June 2013), and working in the travel industry, I have done the Li River Cruise many times. Because it is one of the 'must-do' activities on any visit to Guilin, I have escorted many people over the years, to the point that the cruise if now a bit of a chore rather than something to look forward to.
Recently, a new way to see the Li River has become available to Western tourists. The trip to Yangshuo by raft was until recently only available to domestic Chinese tourists. The Government has recently opened this unique adventure to foreigners.
Now that there are two ways to see the famous Li River, which one is best, open raft or air-conditional cruiser? This is the view through my eyes.
There are many Li River Cruise operators providing cruises from Zhujiang Wharf, about 30 minutes drive from downtown Guilin, where most hotels are located. The cruises leave the wharf between 9 and 9:30am and the boat covers the 83 kilometers to Yangshuo in 4–5 hours depending on the level of water in the river.
Boats vary in standard and this of course is reflected in the price. I personally would not travel on the lower level boats and China Highlights would not book customers onto the cheaper ships. The boats carry about 120 people.
The ships are air-conditioned, which is necessary on hot summer days, and usually have two decks for passenger seating and outside observation decks and areas. The seats are comfortable without being luxurious.
Lunch is included on all of the boats that I have been on. The meal is a tourist-style Chinese lunch, and I have had much better. Drinks and other refreshments are available on the boat. In my experience, the restrooms have been clean with Western style toilets. I am told that some of the lower-priced boats have squat toilets.
The ships provide a great platform to view the picturesque Li River, the karst mountains, which are the main attraction, and life which is happening both on the river and on the bank.
The cruise terminates in Yangshuo, which is one of the playgrounds of China.
When I heard that there was a different way to see the fantastic scenery on the Li River I was excited. I knew that I had some very old friends visiting in the near future and as the Li River cruise is a must for people coming to Guilin, I have to say I was not looking forward to another trip down the river on a cruiser.
We were picked up from our friend's hotel by a guide and driven about an hour to Yangdi, which is a village with good access to the Li River (about 1 hour from Guilin). Dozens of rafts have their slightly-turned-up noses butted on to the concrete wall which forms the river bank.
The rafts are built in the traditional design which has plied the river for centuries and is still used by fisherman and farmers. Bamboo was originally used in construction, however these days the hull consists of 10 large plastic pipes fastened together to form the hull. It is very stable. The rafts are open at the front, rear and sides but are covered to protect passengers from the sun. Needless to say rafting would not be an option when them the weather is bad or in the depths of winter.
We sat on comfortable bamboo armchairs. The rafts hold 4–6 people not including the boatman and are powered by a long-tail outboard motor, which does a make the trip noisier than the river cruises, but is not excessive and we were able to talk during the trip quite easily.
The trip to Xingping takes under 2 hours and includes the most renowned parts of the river — Nine Horse Mural Mountain and the mountains which appear on the CNY20 bank note close to Xingping.
The boatman can stop anywhere on the river to take photos and it is possible to stop during the trip for a simple lunch at local restaurants on the river bank. No refreshments are available on the raft. It is easy to buy drinks or snacks before leaving Yangdi. There is no restroom on the raft. Xingping has lots of restaurants if you did not eat on the cruise or choose not to wait until arriving in Yangshuo (with far more to choose from: see Top 10 Restaurants in Yangshuo).
After arriving in Xingping we explored this ancient village for a short time before making the 45-minute drive to Yangshuo. The drive to Yangshuo is a pleasant trip through the countryside, although the road is currently being upgraded and rough in some places.
1. Regulations: To ensure the safe passage of cruises, rafts are not permitted to run from 11:30am to 1pm. In bad weather, especially in spring and summer, rafting can be cancelled at short notice. The age restriction is 7–70 years old.
2. A raft has 4 or 6 passenger seats passenger seats. If you don’t want to share a raft with others, or don’t want to wait for your raft to be fully occupied, you can rent a raft on your own, but you need to pay an extra about 40 yuan per vacant seat.
3. We currently don’t recommend Li River rafting, because the service standard of the raftmen can’t be guaranteed. For example, your raftman may shorten your rafting trip without prior agreement so that he could have more time for other clients.
In summary, we really enjoyed the rafting experience, but it would not be for everybody, and good weather is also a requirement. The river cruisers offer a great platform for photography, but without the advantages of being able to stop still. Those looking for a little more adventure will enjoy the rafting experience.
|Enjoying views||Stabler, higher up||Able to stop, more freedom|
|In bad weather||Still possible/ enjoyable||Uncomfortable/ unavailable|
|Food||Mediocre Chinese buffet lunch onboard||Riverbank stop for local food|
|Facilities||Toilet, seat with table, costlier: better quality||Comfortable bamboo chair, disembark for more|
4–5h boat to Yangshuo
2h raft to Xingping,
1h to Yangshuo
|Comments||More river, less road||Best river, quicker journey|
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